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Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS
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Sunday, 31 January 2010 22:19 |
MacLock 1500 Blade Locking System
Residential High Security Locks without a Deadbolt
The commercial and residential door locking hardware industry has produced some significant product improvements over the years. Interchangeable cores, cylindrical locksets, patented key systems and lifetime finishes have all provided increased value to end users over the years. Improvements in mechanical locking mechanisms have included improvements with regard to unauthorized key duplication, or key control. Key control is often not a primary concern of homeowners, whereas resistance to brute force attacks often is. In fact, most lock manufacturers have failed to improve their products' resistance to forced entry, the true test of high security locking systems. Consumers have consistently identified resistance to forced entry as the determining factor when purchasing a higher security residential lock. Nearly two thirds of all break ins are made through entrance doors.
Over the years, increased sales of wrap around reinforcing plates, better deadbolts and multi point locks prove that the demand for locks with greater security will continue to increase. More recently, electronic alarm systems have become much more popular, and our customers will often say that they feel protected with their alarm systems. These alarms will only announce intruders as they enter and do absolutely nothing to prevent a brute force attack against their doors. Despite industry and consumer focus on high security, doors are still secured with dead bolts and latches as they have been for hundreds of years. These locking methods, however, have proven less than adequate. Most deadbolt installations offer little resistance to kicks and other attacks, because they provide only 1" of surface contact with the door jamb. This creates an inherent weak point. A good kick to the door will typically break the frame and casing and may break the deadbolt away from the door, or both. An overwhelming majority of homes are built with wooden jambs and in swinging doors that make kick ins just as likely today as they were a decade ago. While we may often install good improvements to the strike and run longer screws well into the studs behind the door frame, the resistance to brute force attack upon the door is still not as good as it could be. It is possible to install residential high security locks without a deadbolt, using the MacLock 1500. Forced entry has finally been addressed through a revolutionary blade locking concept. Maclock has designed its patent pending model 1500 blade lock, primarily for retrofit residential lock market. The Maclock 1500 replaces a deadbolt's single stress point with 28 inches of blade which transfer stress to steel strike plates mounted in the jamb. A deadlocking feature prevents entry by prying, and an extensive door/jamb contact of 28" makes jamb spreading nearly imposiible. Most significantly, impacts are dispersed across the 28" length, virtually eliminating door jamb and lock failure so common with deadbolts. The Maclock Blade Lock has incredible customer appeal. It is completely unobtrusive. With the door closed, the 1500 cannot be distinguished from a deadbolt. Operation is simple and requires no instruction, because everyone knows how to operate a key and a thumb turn. And most importantly, the product's security value is immediately recognized. Even the most uneducated customer understands that the holding power of a blade far exceeds that of a bolt. In-house testing by Maclock reveals that the impact resistance of the model 1500 is remarkable. Test procedures were established per ANSI/BHMA A156.5-1992 section 10.7 "Bolt Impact Test" protocol. A 99.2 pound bullet was attached to a rope above the door and swung at the door from various distances. In all cases, wood jambs and in-swinging doors were used. Several residential deadbolts were tested along with the 1500 and all passed Grade 3 and Grade 2 tests. Grade 1 impact testing produced very different results. In this test, the 99.2 pound bullet is swung at the door twice in a 45 1/2" arc, which equals 150 pounds of force. All deadbolts failed at grade 1. In one case, the bolt was bent at 90 degree angle and the lock failed. In another test the best residential lock was installed, and the strike was secured with four 3" screws extending through the jamb and into the studs. In this instance the bolt remained in tact, but the strike tore away from the jamb and the lock failed. The most common failure point for deadbolts was the door jamb, which was usually splintered. Maclock's model 1500, on the other hand, easily passed the Grade 1 impact test. In fact, after withstanding the two required Grade 1 blows, testing personnel decided to continue until failure. The door withstood 10 additional blows for a total of 12, or 600% of the required number of Grade 1 blows. After 10 Grade 1 blows, testing was stopped and the operation checked. On the thirteenth Grade 1 blow, the door face separated from the rail and stiles, and the door opened. But incredibly, neither the Maclock 1500 nor its strike were damaged. The force required to cause failure of the Matlock 1500 has still not been determined. These test results are outstounding, particularly when considering the type of door used- a 26 gauge steel clad and styrofoam door. By using the most inexpensive, weakest entry door on the market, Maclock was able to accomplish Grade 1 testing in a worst case scenario. The door flexed and was even slightly creased, but the lock held. Installation of the Matlock 1500 is accomplished with the use of special jigs. The door and frame are routed for the lock channel and strike. Only one standard bore (2 1/8" at 2 3/4"backset) is needed. The lock's 1" wide range is also based on industry standards. The jamb rout is 3/8" deep, and unlike deadbolt holes, does not penetrate the jamb. Also, the 28" blade is long enough to provide unequaled impact resistance, yet short enough to utilize the pre-drilled 2 1/8" bore of nearly any door. Maclock trim hardware employs standard keying, and plugs with various manufacturer's keyways can be ordered to allow keying flexibility. The Maclock 1500 is brass plated and available in both single and double keyed versions. Carefully engineered dimensional and performance specifications make the 1500 practical for use in over 90% of residential doors. Future products include a double door version and variation for a wide variety of special applications. Maclock is currently establishing exclusive dealers throughout the United States and abroad. The Maclock Authorized Dealer network will consist of locksmiths, remodelers, and independent business owners who are assigned territories of several million people. Dealers are responsible for promoting, selling, installing and servicing Maclock consumer products within their territories. They have the option of performing installations themselves or contracting work to Maclock certified locksmiths or contractors. This distribution plan is designed to maximize promotional efforts and to ensure that Maclock installation and service standards are met. Maclock Authorized Dealers are forward thinking business owners who demonstrate integrity, sound business practices and a strong commitment to quality. The critical factor in distributor selection is an ability to promote new products and a willingness to devote significant resources to advertising and marketing. In view of the consumer's demand for truly secure locks and Maclock's exclusive ability to fulfill that demand, the opportunity for Maclock Authorized Dealers is phenomenal. Blade locking technology promises to be the most significant mechanical security innovation in recent history. Unauthorized key duplication and rekeying will likely remain important issues to locksmiths as well as commercial consumers. However, the definition of commercial high security will ultimately be reshaped by the revolutionary concept of blade technology. The demand for higher security, higher quality locks by residential customers, which had gone unanswered by manufacturers in the past, has finally been addressed. |
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Last Updated on Sunday, 31 January 2010 22:31 |
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Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS
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Friday, 05 February 2010 20:08 |
Safe Deposit Locks - Key Changeable
Key Changeable Safe Deposit Locks
Safe deposit locks have been manufactured for many years but very few safe deposit locks have been more confusing than the Sargent and Greenleaf, Precision Products, and ILCO Unican key changeable safe deposit locks. The 4540 was the first key changeable safe deposit lock with a movable fence manufactured by Sargent & Greenleaf. Precision Products started to make their own version of the double key changeable safe deposit lock called the 5400 series. Precision products began to manufacture their 5400 series under the Sargent & Greenleaf name, also known as the Sargent & Greenleaf 4500 series. Sargent & Greenleaf began producing the 4543 key changeable safe deposit lock while Precision Products kept producing the 5400 series key changeable safe deposit lock. Sargent & Greenleaf also began producing the 4545 key changeable safe deposit lock. From the outside, it may be difficult to tell the difference between them as they look very much alike. From the inside, however, they are definitely not alike. The plugs, cams and covers may be different. Additionally, the guard plugs may be very thin, and the key blanks may be different. For all of these reasons, you need to know what lock you have in order to replace parts of locks when you are called upon to service them.
Below you will find some helpful descriptive terms for identifying these locks: 1) The Sargent & Greenleaf model 4545, double key changeable safe deposit lock from S&G. 2) The S&G model 4540 key changeable safe deposit lock. 3) The S&G model 4500 (Precision Products manufactured model 5400). 4) The Precision products model 5400. 5) The ILCO model 54000 safe deposit lock manufactured by ILCO Unican. This should help you with safe deposit lock identification in the field.
SARGENT & GREENLEAF 4545 ( S&G's current double changeable lock) - Incorporates two piece renters, plug and cam. - Has manufacturing date stamped in left hand corner of the lock case. - Uses 5/32" cap screw for changing both renters and guard keys. - Uses thick guard key. - S&G 4500 series stamped on back of lock case. - All levers are pocketed so the plugs go through the center of them. - Guard plug has no tail piece.
SARGENT & GREENLEAF 4500 (Manufactured by Precision Product with S&G logo) - Incorporates single piece renters plug. - Uses thin guard key. - Uses 5/32" cap screw for changing both renters and guard keys. - Sargent & Greenleaf 4500 is stamped on the back of the lock case. - Levers are not pocketed, both plugs go into lock case beneath levers. - Guard plug has no tail piece.
SARGENT & GREENLEAF 4540 (First double key changeable made by Sargent & Greenleaf) - Incorporates two piece renters, plug and cam. - 4540 series is stamped on the cover, closest the bolt. - Uses 3/32" cap screw for changing both the renters and guard keys. - Uses thick guard keys. - All levers are pocketed so both plugs go through the center of them. - Guard plug has no tail piece.
PRECISION PRODUCTS 5400 - Incorporates single piece renters plug. - Precision model 5400 is stamped on the back of the lock case. - Uses 5/32" cap screw for changing both renters and guard keys. - Levers are not pocketed, both plugs go into the lock case beneath levers. - Uses thin guard key. - Guard plug has no tail piece.
ILCO UNICAN 54000 - Incorporates single piece renters plug and cam. - Precision Ilco Unican Corp. series is stamped on the back of the lock case. - Uses 5/32" cap screw for changing both renters and guard keys. - Levers are not pocketed, both plugs go into the case beneath the levers. - Uses thick guard key. - Guard key has no tail piece.
The changing function s for all these locks is the same. To change the renter's keys, the function is as follows: Step 1. Insert guard key and rotate clockwise until it stop. Step 2. Insert renters key and rotate clockwise until it stop. Step 3. Loosen renter fence clamp screw (on the back of lock) with change wrench 3 1/2 turns counterclockwise. Step 4. Turn renters key clockwise and take out of lock. Step 5. Insert new renters key, rotate counterclockwise until stop. Step 6. Tighten renters fence clamp screw clockwise. Step 7. Rotate renters key to locked position, remove key. Step 8. Rotate guard key to locked position, remove key. Lock is now set to new renter's key.
The changing function for changing the guard key is as follows: Step 1. Insert guard key and rotate clockwise until stop. Step 2. Insert renters key and rotate until stop. Step 3. Loosen guard fence clamp screw (on back of lock) with change wrench 31/2 turns counterclockwise. Step 4. Rotate guard key counterclockwise to lock position and remove key. Step 5. Insert new guard key rotate clockwise until stop. Step 6. Tighten guard fence clamp screw clockwise. Step 7. Rotate renters key to locked position and remove key. Step 8. Rotate guard key to locked position and remove key. Lock is now set to new guard key. |
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Last Updated on Friday, 05 February 2010 20:17 |
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Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS
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Friday, 23 April 2010 00:44 |
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Safe Opening
Safe Opening by Side Drilling or Top Drilling
Safe opening by side drilling or top drilling safes can often be the most efficient of safe opening methods. Other than safe lock manipulation, front drilling is often the preffered method of safe opening. When a safe lock failure requires that the safe be drilled, it does not necessarily mean you must approach the safe opening from the front. Safe opening by side drilling or top drilling may be your best safe opening method, depending on the safe lock and the construction of the safe. Advancements in safe technology and safe construction methods, such as glass, difficult hard plate, effective repairs, or additional relocking devices often make front drilling extremely risky and not a recommended course of action in opening certain safes. To not know what is between you on the outside of the door and the safe lock case is an open invitation to disaster and almost certainly a recipe for a difficult and complicated safe opening, rather than the efficient, professional safe openings we prefer and take pride in. The recommended safe opening procedure for many high security TL-15, TL-30, TRTL-30, TL-30 x 6 or better safes is often through the side. It is often possible to side drill a safe and penetrate the safe lock case without touching any glass and setting off any relockers. Safe openings can be performed where relockers are pinned to prevent firing and the glass allowed to break. This is often the best safe opening method if there is no access to the top or side of a larger safe. However, drilling a safe with glass that is broken as part of your safe opening procedure will require that you replace the glass in order to repair the safe back to its original condition, and it may be difficult and or costly to replace the glass plate in many higher quality safes. Additionally, you will save much time in your safe opening procedure by not having to devote time to drilling for the relockers and pinning them to prevent firing. Your efficiency in safe opening allows you to offer more competitive rates for your valued customers and avoids any loss of security of the safe itself when you have completed your repair in a cost effective manner. In most cases the only damage to a safe in a side drilling safe opening is the hole itself, which can be plugged and repaired in a manner which is more secure than the original construction of the safe. You must have a safe opening procedure which includes the penetration itself and an understanding of what is between the side of the safe and the safe lock case.
Side drill safe opening or top drill safe opening methods
1. Side drill to view the change key hole with your scope. 2. Side drill to penetrate the side of the safe lock case and view the wheel pack. 3. Side drill to punch the lock bolt into the safe lock case. 4. Side or top drill to cut off a lock bolt or compromise the boltwork of the safe.
Unlike front drilling safe openings, where you drill into the safe until you reach the safe lock case, side drill safe openings may require exact measurements. If you are going to drill into the side of the safe to scope the safe lock through the change key hole, you must determine exactly where that change key hole is relative to the side entry hole. For your depth measurement, you can remove the dial and insert a thin stiff wire into the spindle hole, alongside the spindle until it hits on the case of the safe lock. Add about 1" more to accomodate the thickness of the safe lock case, and another 1/2" to allow for clearance between the safe lock and the cavity between the safe lock case and door cover. Add your measurements and measure that same amount from the front face of the door, at its edge, back along the side of the safe. This is good for the depth measurement. For the elevation measurement you must determine the handing of the lock and its position (right hand, vertical up, vertical down, or left hand.) If you don't determine the handing with references or by making an educated guess, using the safe handle orientation and position, you may be drilling more than one hole.
Safe opening measurements for the safe lock change key hole
1. If the safe lock is installed vertical up, the change key hole will be 1/2" down from the dial center and 1/2" to the left. 2. If the safe lock is installed vertical down, the change key hole will be 1/2" up from dial center and 1/2" to the right. 3. If the safe lock is installed right hand, the change key hole will be 1/2" down from dial center and 1/2" to the right. 4. If the safe lock is installed left hand, the change key hole will be 1/2" up from dial center and 1/2" to the left.
Some safes do not provide a change key entry hole in the back plate of the safe lock case. There may not be enough clearance between the safe lock back cover and the door cover material to insert your scope, even if there is a change key hole. In cases like this you can drill into the side of the safe lock case and view the wheel pack of the combination lock. It is also possible to drill the lock bolt away or compromise the boltwork if you can view the boltwork arrangement with your scope and the design of the safe allows this safe opening method.
Side drilling a safe and viewing the change key hole with your scope requires that you make an alignment of the wheels, taking notes of the numbers as you read the dial. Safes with Sargent & Greenleaf safe combination locks have the #3 wheel closest to the drive cam at the rear of the lock. When viewing the wheels through the change key hole you can either scope the change key entry hole in each wheel or scope the gates. The wheel gates are much easier to find. Make a mark on a dial ring 41 numbers clockwise of the opening index. Whenever a gate appears through your scope hole, note that number on the mark on your dial ring. This a working combination number which you can later dial to the opening index. Determining the gates in the number 2 wheel and the number 1 wheel is more time consuming because the number 3 wheel will obstruct your view. You must constantly advance the dial very slightly to move the #2 wheel around, but always return to the #3 wheel to open your window of view through the gate. After you determine your number for wheel 2, you will have to place both wheel 2 and wheel 3 at their respective numbers every time you advance wheel 1 to determine its number. While it is possible for one safe tech to scope the change key hole of a safe lock, it is much easier for two safe techs, or one safe tech and a good camera. If you are good at dialing you can concentrate on which wheels you are moving at all times and can do it alone. Unless you have really long arms this safe opening procedure makes a camera very useful and quite indispensible. It can be quite difficult to concentrate on how you are dialing the safe lock combination wheels while being distracted by your aching back, stretching to reach the dial while you struggle to maintain your view through the eyepiece of your scope.
You must have good references of how safes are constructed or experience in certain safe designs and construction to succesfully drill from the side. When faced with your next decision about attempting a safe opening by side drilling or top drilling, remember time spent in determining the design and construction of the safe you are opening may save you lost time in additional repairs due to poor decisions. Safe opening by side drilling will become your preffered method of safe opening in many more safe openings and should not be something that intimidates you. Side drilling or top drilling is often the most efficient and preffered method of safe opening.
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Last Updated on Thursday, 29 April 2010 23:56 |
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Written by Harold Fink, Locksmith, CRL CPS
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Friday, 01 January 2010 08:07 |
Safe Identification
Safe Identification and Estimates for Safe Opening
Safe Identification does bring to light that a picture truly is worth a thousand words. An expectation of many safe technicians to have an image of your safe in order to properly identify your safe and provide an estimate for a safe opening is not unreasonable. For safe identification purposes, it is helpful to be able to send an image of your safe in an email. You can assist a locksmith or safe tech over the phone, or in an email, with safe identification by offering several important pieces of information, with or without an image. Proper safe identification should be helpful in obtaining an accurate quote for safe servicing fees or safe opening fees, should you be in need of safe services by a professional safe technician.
First, what is the overall size and shape of the safe? What is the size and shape of the door? When was the last time you were successful with the safe opening, and what do you remember with regard to the operation of the safe combination lock?
Second, does it have a dial or keypad? If a dial, how many numbers are on the dial, and what identifying marks are on the dial and ring? If a keypad, what is the shape of the keypad? What sounds do you hear when you use the keypad? Are there any visual indicators on the keypad? Are there any identifying marks on the keypad? Is there or was there ever a key required for the safe? If so, where does the key go in with respect to the dial or keypad? Are there any identifying marks are on the key? If you never had a key, or have lost keys, what do you remember about what the key or keys looked like?
Third, where is the handle located with respect to the safe lock dial or keypad? Directly below? Directly to the left of the dial? Somewhere in between? What is the distance from the center of the dial or keypad to the handle? These are all questions that can be answered over the phone or in an email and should be extremely helpful in obtaining estimates for safe opening.
Without an image of your safe, some of this information should be extremely helpful in describing the basic safe design to an experienced safe tech. The basic design is often helpful enough for an experienced safe tech to properly identify your safe for safe opening estimates. Because images are so helpful in proper safe identification and in providing an estimate for safe opening, it is strongly suggested that you take a picture of your safe door and attach it in an email to your locksmith. Without it, you may get only a rough estimate for safe opening. |
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Last Updated on Friday, 05 February 2010 21:33 |
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